The beaches of the south shore of the Gulf of Ajaccio
From Porticcio to Capo di Muro, the south shore of the Gulf of Ajaccio lines up eight beaches over some fifteen kilometres. They are not alike. Some are long and open to the breeze, others fit inside a granite cove. Here is how to tell them apart, and which one to choose depending on the weather, the age of the children and the hour of the day.
Ruppione beach
This is ours, and it is also the most versatile. Six hundred metres of fine sand, water so clear it turns turquoise the moment the sun is out, and a gentle slope for the first few metres. It is supervised in high season, which is not the case for all of its neighbours.
Ruppione has something few beaches in the gulf can offer: on days of westerly wind, the swell rolls in and turns it into a well-known surf spot. In other words, the same beach serves families in the morning and boards in the afternoon when it blows. Paddleboard hire and water sports on site in season.
Our stays in the Castello Rosso area, on the heights above the beach, are two hundred metres up, a two-minute walk down a footpath. You go down in your swimsuit, come back up for lunch, and go down again. That is what changes everything compared with a rental that means taking the car and hunting for a space.
Sleeping two minutes away on foot: A Marina, a one-bedroom with open sea view for four. A Terrazza, a single-level one-bedroom with terrace and balcony. U Giardinu, a one-bedroom with sleeping nook and enclosed garden for five.
Mare e Sole, the silver beach
Just south of Ruppione, Mare e Sole owes its nickname to the colour of its sand in the late afternoon sun. Its reputation rests above all on its sandbanks: you keep your footing a very long way out, in water that stays warm. This is the beach to remember with young children or hesitant swimmers.
Its reputation is well earned. The finest moments to enjoy it: mornings before eleven, when the water is a mirror, or after four, when the light comes down on the sand and gives it that silver colour.
The Isolella peninsula and Cala Medea
North of Ruppione, the Isolella peninsula reaches into the gulf and shelters a series of small coves protected by blocks of granite. These are no longer beaches but inlets, more intimate, often more sheltered from the wind.
Cala Medea stands out for its pink sand, a colour that comes from the weathered granite around it. The Cala Medea car park is also the starting point for the walk to the Genoese tower of Isolella, which we cover on our what to do in Pietrosella page.
Agosta and Stagnola
Heading back towards Porticcio, Agosta beach unrolls more than two kilometres of sand immediately below the road. It is the longest on the south shore, and therefore the one where there is always room, even on the fifteenth of August. It is also the most open to the breeze, which makes it a delight on the hottest days.
Stagnola, between Agosta and Isolella, is shorter and more confidential. It is the address of those who want a beach on a human scale, a stone's throw from the big ones.
Cala d'Orzu and Portigliolo
Further south, towards Capo di Muro, you leave the easy beaches for wilder places. Cala d'Orzu has to be earned a little, and reveals itself from above as you walk towards the tower of Capu di Muru. Portigliolo, before the Castagna peninsula, is a small sandy beach that keeps a family spirit even in high summer.
These two are worth the effort, at the end of a beautiful road that follows the coast. The reward is simple: in the middle of July, you find the calm and the space of a June morning.
Which one to choose, depending on what you are after
- With young children — Mare e Sole for its sandbanks, Ruppione because it is supervised in season.
- To surf or paddleboard — Ruppione on days of westerly wind.
- For a beach all to yourself in high summer — Portigliolo, Cala d'Orzu, or the coves of Isolella.
- For a long walk with your feet in the water — Agosta and its two kilometres.
- For the sunset — the tip of Isolella, facing the Sanguinaires islands.
From our stays
All of these beaches are within twenty-five minutes of Pietrosella. Here are the real times from our four addresses in southern Corsica.
| From | Ruppione | Mare e Sole | Agosta |
|---|---|---|---|
| A Marina | 2 min on foot | 5 min by car | 10 min by car |
| A Terrazza | 2 min on foot | 5 min by car | 10 min by car |
| U Giardinu | 2 min on foot | 5 min by car | 10 min by car |
| Villa Accelasca | 5 min by car | 8 min by car | 13 min by car |
An easy swim
The Gulf of Ajaccio is sheltered, the water is calm and clear, and Ruppione is one of the few supervised beaches on the south shore in high season. That peace of mind counts when you come as a family: a lifeguard post, flags, and lifeguards who know the beach.
One accessory to slip into the suitcase: a pair of water shoes. The rocky coves of Isolella then open up barefoot among the rocks, and you explore the seabed without a second thought. They cost a few euros in Porticcio.
With a pushchair or reduced mobility
Two beaches lend themselves particularly well to easy arrivals: Agosta, which the road overlooks directly, and Mare e Sole, whose access is on one level from the car park. You settle the pushchair and the towels in two minutes.
As for accommodation, A Terrazza is entirely on one level, from the car park to the bedroom, without a single step. That is a rare asset on this coast, and it makes all the difference with a pushchair, a suitcase, or simply the wish not to climb stairs on holiday.
Every season has its reason to come
The Gulf of Ajaccio is largely sheltered from the prevailing winds, and the south shore faces due west: it catches the sun to the very last ray. You swim here far longer than you would imagine from the mainland.
April and May. Come and enjoy the first swims in crystal-clear water, on deserted beaches. The maquis is in flower, it smells of cistus and immortelle, and the sand is yours alone. It is the rarest luxury in the Mediterranean.
June. The longest days of the year, fifteen hours of light from morning to night. The sea is gentle, the beaches are vast, and you still dine outside at ten in the evening.
July and August. Corsica at full strength: turquoise water, saturated colours, evenings that never end. Walking down to the beach in your swimsuit, without looking for a parking space, is the real privilege of the season.
September. The month preferred by those in the know. The sea has kept all the warmth of summer, the light turns golden, and you find the space of spring with the temperature of August.
October and November. Mildness settles in, the maquis changes colour, the trails call in broad daylight. And the heated pool stays open for a swim every morning.
Frequently asked questions about the south shore beaches
Is Ruppione beach supervised?
Yes, in high season. It is one of the few supervised beaches on the south shore, which partly explains its popularity with families.
Are there restaurants on the beaches?
A few beach places open in season at Ruppione and Mare e Sole. For a wider choice, Porticcio is ten minutes away and holds most of the south shore's dining.
Can we come with a dog?
Our stays welcome animals, with a supplement. For walks with paws in the water, the quieter beaches to the south, Portigliolo and Cala d'Orzu, are the most welcoming. Municipal notices at the entrance to each beach set out the seasonal hours.
Which beach is closest to your rentals?
Ruppione, two hundred metres and a two-minute walk from A Marina, A Terrazza and U Giardinu, and five minutes by car from Villa Accelasca.
Three things worth knowing
The best hours. Mornings before eleven, the light is limpid and the sand is cool. Late afternoon belongs to those who stay for the sunset over the Sanguinaires. From the Castello Rosso area you walk down and choose your hour without worrying about the rest.
Shade. The pines behind the beach offer some to the early risers. A parasol in the boot guarantees the children's nap at any hour.
The season. You swim from spring to autumn in this sheltered gulf. And for those who want to swim every day without giving it a thought, the villa's heated pool is open from March to the end of November, nine months out of twelve.